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A more accurate permeation tester

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There are two ASTM-approved methods for measuring the gas permeability of a material. The equipment is very similar, and REB Research makes equipment for either. In one of these methods (described in detail here) you measure the rate of pressure rise in a small volume.This method is ideal for high permeation rate materials. It’s fast, reliable, and as a bonus, allows you to infer diffusivity and solubility as well, based on the permeation and breakthrough time.

Exploded view of the permeation cell.

For slower permeation materials, I’ve found you are better off with the other method: using a flow of sampling gas (helium typically, though argon can be used as well) and a gas-sampling gas chromatograph. We sell the cells for this, though not the gas chromatograph. For my own work, I use helium as the carrier gas and sampling gas, along with a GC with a 1 cc sampling loop (a coil of stainless steel tube), and an automatic, gas-operated valve, called a sampling valve. I use a VECO ionization detector since it provides the greatest sensitivity differentiating hydrogen from helium.

When doing an experiment, the permeate gas is put into the upper chamber. That’s typically hydrogen for my experiments. The sampling gas (helium in my setup) is made to flow past the lower chamber at a fixed, flow rate, 20 sccm or less. The sampling gas then flows to the sampling loop of the GC, and from there up the hood. Every 20 minutes or so, the sampling valve switches, sending the sampling gas directly out the hood. When the valve switches, the carrier gas (helium) now passes through the sampling loop on its way to the column. This sends the 1 cc of sample directly to the GC column as a single “injection”. The GC column separates the various gases in the sample and determines the components and the concentration of each. From the helium flow rate, and the argon concentration in it, I determine the permeation rate and, from that, the permeability of the material.

As an example, let’s assume that the sample gas flow is 20 sccm, as in the diagram above, and that the GC determines the H2 concentration to be 1 ppm. The permeation rate is thus 20 x 10-6 std cc/minute, or 3.33 x 10-7 std cc/s. The permeability is now calculated from the permeation area (12.56 cm2 for the cells I make), from the material thickness, and from the upstream pressure. Typically, one measures the thickness in cm, and the pressure in cm of Hg so that 1 atm is 76cm Hg. The result is that permeability is determined in a unit called barrer. Continuing the example above, if the upstream hydrogen is 15 psig, that’s 2 atmospheres absolute or or 152 cm Hg. Lets say that the material is a polymer of thickness is 0.3 cm; we thus conclude that the permeability is 0.524 x 10-10 scc/cm/s/cm2/cmHg = 0.524 barrer.

This method is capable of measuring permeabilities lower than the previous method, easily lower than 1 barrer, because the results are not fogged by small air leaks or degassing from the membrane material. Leaks of oxygen, and nitrogen show up on the GC output as peaks that are distinct from the permeate peak, hydrogen or whatever you’re studying as a permeate gas. Another plus of this method is that you can measure the permeability of multiple gas species simultaneously, a useful feature when evaluating gas separation polymers. If this type of approach seems attractive, you can build a cell like this yourself, or buy one from us. Send us an email to reb@rebresearch.com, or give us a call at 248-545-0155.

Robert Buxbaum, April 27, 2022.

A hydrogen permeation tester

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Over the years I’ve done a fair amount of research on hydrogen permeation in metals — this is the process of the gas dissolving in the metal and diffusing to the other side. I’ve described some of that, but never the devices that measure the permeation rate. Besides, my company, REB Research, sells permeation testing devices, though they are not listed on our site. We recently shipped one designed to test hydrogen permeation through plastics for use in light weight hydrogen tanks, for operation at temperatures from -40°C to 85°C. Shortly thereafter we got another order for a permeation tester. With all the orders, I thought I’d describe the device a bit — this is the device for low permeation materials. We have a similar, but less complex design for high permeation rate material.

Shown below is the central part of the device. It is a small volume that can be connected to a high vacuum, or disconnected by a valve. There is an accurate pressure sensor, accurate to 0.01 Torr, and so configured that you do not get H2 + O2 reactions (something that would severely throw off results). There is also a chamber for holding a membrane so one side is help in vacuum, in connection to the gauge, and the other is exposed to hydrogen, or other gas at pressures up to 100 psig (∆P =115 psia). I’d tested to 200 psig, but currently feel like sticking to 100 psig or less. This device gives amazingly fast readings for plastics with permeabilities as low as 0.01 Barrer.

REB Research hydrogen permeation tester cell with valve and pressure sensor.

REB Research hydrogen permeation tester cell with valve and pressure sensor.

To control the temperature in this range of interest, the core device shown in the picture is put inside an environmental chamber, set up as shown below, with he control box outside the chamber. I include a nitrogen flush device as a safety measure so that any hydrogen that leaks from the high pressure chamber will not build up to reach explosive limits within the environmental chamber. If this device is used to measure permeation of a non-flammable gas, you won’t need to flush the environmental chamber.

I suggest one set up the vacuum pump right next to the entrance of the chamber; in the case of the chamber provided, that’s on the left as shown with the hydrogen tank and a nitrogen tank to the left of the pump. I’ve decided to provide a pressure sensor for the N2 (nitrogen) and a solenoidal shutoff valve for the H2 (hydrogen) line. These work together as a safety feature for long experiments. Their purpose is to automatically turn off the hydrogen if the nitrogen runs out. The nitrogen flush part of this process is a small gauge copper line that goes from the sensor into the environmental chamber with a small, N2 flow bleed valve at the end. I suggest setting the N2 pressure to 25-35 psig. This should give a good inert flow into the environmental chamber. You’ll want a nitrogen flush, even for short experiments, and most experiments will be short. You may not need an automatic N2 sensor, but you’ll be able to do this visually.

Basic setup for REB permeation tester and environmental chamber

Basic setup for REB permeation tester and environmental chamber

I shipped the permeation cell comes with some test, rubbery plastic. I’d recommend the customer leave it in for now, so he/she can use it for some basic testing. For actual experiments, you replace mutest plastic with the sample you want to check. Connect the permeation cell as shown above, using VCR gaskets (included), and connect the far end to the multi-temperature vacuum hose, provided. Do this outside of the chamber first, as a preliminary test to see if everything is working.

For a first test live the connections to the high pressure top section unconnected. The pressure then will be 1 atm, and the chamber will be full of air. eave the top, Connect the power to the vacuum pressure gauge reader and connect the gauge reader to the gauge head. Open the valve and turn on the pump. If there are no leaks the pressure should fall precipitously, and you should see little to no vapor coming out the out port on the vacuum pump. If there is vapor, you’ve got a leak, and you should find it; perhaps you didn’t tighten a VCR connection, or you didn’t do a good job with the vacuum hose. When things are going well, you should see the pressure drop to the single-digit, milliTorr range. If you close the valve, you’ll see the pressure rise in the gauge. This is mostly water and air degassing from the plastic sample. After 30 minutes, the rate of degassing should slow and you should be able to measure the rate of gas permeation in the polymer. With my test plastic, it took a minute or so for the pressure to rise by 10 milliTorr after I closed the valve.

If you like, you can now repeat this preliminary experiment with hydrogen connect the hydrogen line to one of the two ports on the top of the permeation cell and connect the other port to the rest of the copper tubing. Attach the H2 bleed restrictor (provided) at the end of this tubing. Now turn on the H2 pressure to some reasonable value — 45 psig, say. With 45 psi (3 barg upstream) you will have a ∆P of 60 psia or 4 atm across the membrane; vacuum equals -15 psig. Repeat the experiment above; pump everything down, close the valve and note that the pressure rises faster. The restrictor allows you to maintain a H2 pressure with a small, cleansing flow of gas through the cell.

If you like to do these experiments with a computer record, this might be a good time to connect your computer to the vacuum reader/ controller, and to the thermocouple, and to the N2 pressure sensor. 

Here’s how I calculate the permeability of the test polymer from the time it takes for a pressure rise assuming air as the permeating gas. The volume of the vacuumed out area after the valve is 32 cc; there is an open area in the cell of 13.0 cm2 and, as it happens, the  thickness of the test plastic is 2 mm. To calculate the permeation rate, measure the time to rise 10 millitorr. Next calculate the millitorr per hour: that’s 360 divided by the time to rise ten milliTorr. To calculate ncc/day, multiply the millitorr/hour by 24 and by the volume of the chamber, 32 cc, and divide by 760,000, the number of milliTorr in an atmosphere. I found that, for air permeation at ∆P = one atm, I was getting 1 minute per milliTorr, which translates to about 0.5 ncc/day of permeation through my test polymer sheet. To find the specific permeability in cc.mm/m2.day.atm, I multiply this last number by the thickness of the plastic (2 mm in this case), divide by the area, 0.0013 m2, and divide by ∆P, 1 atm, for this first test. Calculated this way, I got an air permeance of 771 cc.mm/m2.day.atm.

The complete setup for permeation testing.

The complete setup for permeation testing.

Now repeat the experiment with hydrogen and your own plastic. Disconnect the cell from both the vacuum line and from the hydrogen in line. Open the cell; take out my test plastic and replace it with your own sample, 1.87” diameter, or so. Replace the gasket, or reuse it. Center the top on the bottom and retighten the bolts. I used 25 Nt-m of torque, but part of that was using a very soft rubbery plastic. You might want to use a little more — perhaps 40-50 Nt-m. Seal everything up. Check that it is leak tight, and you are good to go.

The experimental method is the same as before and the only signficant change when working with hydrogen, besides the need for a nitrogen flush, is that you should multiply the time to reach 10 milliTorr by the square-root of seven, 2.646. Alternatively, you can multiply the calculated permeability by 0.378. The pressure sensor provided measures heat transfer and hydrogen is a better heat transfer material than nitrogen by a factor of √7. The vacuum gauge is thus more sensitive to H2 than to N2. When the gauge says that a pressure change of 10 milliTorr has occurred, in actuality, it’s only 3.78 milliTorr.  The pressure gauge reads 3.78 milliTorr oh hydrogen as 10 milliTorr.

You can speed experiments by a factor of ten, by testing the time to rise 1 millitorr instead of ten. At these low pressures, the gauge I provided reads in hundredths of a milliTorr. Alternately, for higher permeation plastics (or metals) you want to test the time to rise 100 milliTorr or more, otherwise the experiment is over too fast. Even at a ten millTorr change, this device gives good accuracy in under 1 hour with even the most permeation-resistant polymers.

Dr. Robert E. Buxbaum, March 27, 2019; If you’d like one of these, just ask. Here’s a link to our web site, REB Research,

Toxic electrochemistry and biology at home

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A few weeks back, I decided to do something about the low quality of experiments in modern chemistry and science sets; I posted to this blog some interesting science experiments, and some more-interesting experiments that could be done at home using the toxic (poisonous dangerous) chemicals available under the sink or on the hardware store. Here are some more. As previously, the chemicals are toxic and dangerous but available. As previously, these experiments should be done only with parental (adult) supervision. Some of these next experiments involve some math, as key aspect of science; others involve some new equipment as well as the stuff you used previously. To do them all, you will want a stop watch, a volt-amp meter, and a small transformer, available at RadioShack; you’ll also want some test tubes or similar, clear cigar tubes, wire and baking soda; for the coating experiment you’ll want copper drain clear, or copper containing fertilizer and some washers available at the hardware store; for metal casting experiment you’ll need a tin can, pliers, a gas stove and some pennies, plus a mold, some sand, good shoes, and a floor cover; and for the biology experiment you will need several 9 V batteries, and you will have to get a frog and kill it. You can skip any of these experiments, if you like and do the others. If you have not done the previous experiments, look them over or do them now.

1) The first experiments aim to add some numerical observations to our previous studies of electrolysis. Here is where you will see why we think that molecules like water are made of fixed compositions of atoms. Lets redo the water electrolysis experiment now with an Ammeter in line between the battery and one of the electrodes. With the ammeter connected, put both electrodes deep into a solution of water with a little lye, and then (while watching the ammeter) lift one electrode half out, place it back, and lift the other. You will find, I think, that one of the other electrode is the limiting electrode, and that the amperage goes to 1/2 its previous value when this electrode is half lifted. Lifting the other electrode changes neither the amperage or the amount of bubbles, but lifting this limiting electrode changes both the amount of bubbles and the amperage. If you watch closely, though, you’ll see it changes the amount of bubbles at both electrodes in proportion, and that the amount of bubbles is in promotion to the amperage. If you collect the two gasses simultaneously, you’ll see that the volume of gas collected is always in a ratio of 2 to 1. For other electrolysis (H2 and Cl2) it will be 1 to1; it’s always a ratio of small numbers. See diagram below on how to make and collect oxygen and hydrogen simultaneously by electrolyzing water with lye or baking soda as electrolyte. With lye or baking soda, you’ll find that there is always twice as much hydrogen produced as oxygen — exactly.

You can also do electrolysis with table salt or muriatic acid as an electrolyte, but for this you’ll need carbon or platinum electrodes. If you do it right, you’ll get hydrogen and chlorine, a green gas that smells bad. If you don’t do this right, using a wire instead of a carbon or platinum electrode, you’ll still get hydrogen, but no chlorine. Instead of chlorine, you’ll corrode the wire on that end, making e.g. copper chloride. With a carbon electrode and any chloride compound as the electrolyte, you’ll produce chlorine; without a chloride electrolyte, you will not produce chlorine at any voltage, or with any electrode. And if you make chlorine and check the volumes, you’ll find you always make one volume of chlorine for every volume of hydrogen. We imagine from this that the compounds are made of fixed atoms that transfer electrons in fixed whole numbers per molecule. You always make two volumes of hydrogen for every volume of oxygen because (we think) making oxygen requires twice as many electrons as making hydrogen.

At home electrolysis experiment

At home electrolysis experiment

We get the same volume of chlorine as hydrogen because making chlorine and hydrogen requires the same amount of electrons to be transferred. These are the sort of experiments that caused people to believe in atoms and molecules as the fundamental unchanging components of matter. Different solutes, voltages, and electrodes will affect how fast you make hydrogen and oxygen, as will the amount of dissolved solute, but the gas produced are always the same, and the ratio of volumes is always proportional to the amperage in a fixed ratio of small whole numbers.

As always, don’t let significant quantities of use hydrogen and oxygen or pure hydrogen and chlorine mix in a closed space. Hydrogen and oxygen is quite explosive brown’s gas; hydrogen and chlorine are reactive as well. When working with chlorine it is best to work outside or near an open window: chlorine is a poison gas.

You may also want to try this with non-electrolytes, pure water or water with sugar or alcohol dissolved. You will find there is hardly any amperage or gas with these, but the small amount of gas produced will retain the same ratio. For college level folks, here is some physics/math relating to the minimum voltage and relating to the quantities you should expect at any amperage.

2) Now let’s try electro-plating metals. Using the right solutes, metals can be made to coat your electrodes the same way that bubbles of gas coated your electrodes in the experiments above. The key is to find the right chemical, and as a start let me suggest the copper sulphate sold in hardware stores to stop root growth. As an alternative copper sulphate is often sold as part of a fertilizer solution like “Miracle grow.” Look for copper on the label, or for a blue color fertilizer. Make a solution of copper using enough copper so that the solution is recognizably green, Use two steel washers as electrodes (that is connect the wires from your battery to the washers) and put them in the solution. You will find that one side turns red, as it is coated with copper. Depending on what else your copper solution contained, bubbles may appear at the other washer, or the other washer will corrode. 

You are now ready to take this to a higher level — silver coating. take a piece of silver plated material that you want to coat, and clean it nicely with soap and water. Connect it to the electrode where you previously coated copper. Now clean out the solution carefully. Buy some silver nitrate from a drug store, and dissolve a few grams (1/8 tsp for a start) in pure water; place the silverware and the same electrodes as before, connected to the battery. For a nicer coat use a 1 1/2 volt lantern battery; the 6 V battery will work too, but the silver won’t look as nice. With silver nitrate, you’ll notice that one electrode produces gas (oxygen) and the other turns silvery. Now disconnect the silvery electrode. You can use this method to silver coat a ring, fork, or cup — anything you want to have silver coated. This process is called electroplating. As with hydrogen production, there is a proportional relationship between the time, the amperage and the amount of metal you deposit — until all the silver nitrate in solution is used up.

As a yet-more complex version, you can also electroplate without using a battery. This was my Simple electroplating (presented previously). Consider this only after you understand most everything else I’ve done. When I saw this the first time in high school I was confused.

3) Casting metal objects using melted pennies, heat from a gas stove, and sand or plaster as a cast. This is pretty easy, but sort of dangerous — you need parents help, if only as a watcher. This is a version of an experiment I did as a kid.  I did metal casting using lead that some plumbers had left over. I melted it in a tin can on our gas stove and cast “quarters” in a plaster mold. Plumbers no longer use lead, but modern pennies are mostly zinc, and will melt about as well as my lead did. They are also much safer.

As a preparation for this experiment, get a bucket full of sand. This is where you’ll put your metal when you’re done. Now get some pennies (1970 or later), a pair of pliers, and an empty clean tin can, and a gas stove. If you like you can make a plaster mold of some small object: a ring, a 50 piece — anything you might want to cast from your pennies. With parents’ help, light your gas stove, put 5-8 pennies in the empty tin can, and hold the can over the lit gas burner using your pliers. Turn the gas to high. In a few minutes the bottom of the can will burn and become red-hot. About this point, the pennies will soften and melt into a silvery puddle. By tilting the can, you can stir the metal around (don’t get it on you!). When it looks completely melted you can pour the molten pennies into your sand bucket (carefully), or over your plaster mold (carefully). If you use a mold, you’ll get a zinc copy of whatever your mold was: jewelry, coins, etc. If you work at it, you’ll learn to make fancier and fancier casts. Adult help is welcome to avoid accidents. Once the metal solidifies, you can help cool it faster by dripping water on it from a faucet. Don’t touch it while it’s hot!

A plaster mold can be made by putting a 50¢ piece at the bottom of a paper cup, pouring plaster over the coin, and waiting for it to dry. Tear off the cup, turn the plaster over and pull out the coin; you’ve got a one-sided mold, good enough to make a one-sided coin. If you enjoy this, you can learn more about casting on Wikipedia; it’s an endeavor that only costs 4 or 5 cents per try. As a safety note: wear solid leather shoes and cover the floor near the stove with a board. If you drop the metal on the floor you’ll have a permanent burn mark on the floor and your mother will not be happy. If you drop hot metal on your you’ll have a permanent injury, and you won’t be happy. Older pennies are made of copper and will not melt. Here’s a video of someone pouring a lot of metal into an ant-hill (kills lots of ants, makes a mold of the hill).

It's often helpful to ask yourself, "what would Dr. Frankenstein do?"

It’s nice to have assistants, friends and adult help in the laboratory when you do science. Even without the castle, it’s what Dr. Frankenstein did.

4) Bringing a dead frog back to life (sort of). Make a high voltage battery of 45 to 90 V battery by attaching 5-10, 9V batteries in a daisy chain they will snap together. If you touch both exposed contacts you’ll give yourself a wicked shock. If you touch the electrodes to a newly killed frog, the frog legs will kick. This is sort of groovy. It was the inspiration for Dr. Frankenstein (at right), who then decides he could bring a person back from the dead with “more power.” Frankenstein’s monster is brought back to life this way, but ends up killing the good doctor. Shocks are sometimes helpful reanimating people stricken by heat attacks, and many buildings have shockers for this purpose. But don’t try to bring back the long-dead. By all accounts, the results are less-than pleasing. Try dissecting the rest of the frog and guess what each part is (a world book encyclopedia helps). As I recall, the heart keeps going for a while after it’s out of the frog — spooky.

5) Another version of this shocker is made with a small transformer (1″ square, say, radioshack) and a small battery (1.5-6V). Don’t use the 90V battery, you’ll kill someone. As a first version of this shocker, strip 1″ of  insulation off of the ends of some wire 12″ long say, and attach one end to two paired wires of the transformer (there will usually be a diagram in the box). If the transformer already has some wires coming out, all you have to do is strip more insulation off the ends so 1″ is un-inuslated. Take two paired ends in your hand, holding onto the uninsulated part and touch both to the battery for a second or two. Then disconnect them while holding the bare wires; you’ll get a shock. As a nastier version, get a friend to hope the opposite pair of wires on the uninsulated parts, while you hold the insulated parts of your two. Touch your two to the battery and disconnect while holding the insulation, you will see a nice spark, and your friend will get a nice shock. Play with it; different arrangements give more sparks or bigger shocks. Another thing you can do: put your experiment near a radio or TV. The transformer sparks will interfere with most nearby electronics; you can really mess up a computer this way, so keep it far from your computer. This is how wireless radio worked long ago, and how modern warfare will probably go. The atom bomb was detonated with a spark like this.

If you want to do more advanced science, it’s a good idea to learn math. This is important for statistics, for engineering, for quantum mechanics, and can even help for music. Get a few good high school or college books and read them cover to cover. An approach to science is to try to make something cool, that sort-of works, and then try to improve it. You then decide what a better version would work like,  modify your original semi-randomly and see if you’re going in the right direction. Don’t redesign with only one approach –it may not work. Read whatever you can, but don’t believe all you read. Often books are misleading, or wrong, and blogs are worse (I ought to know). When you find mistakes, note them in the margin, and try to explain them. You may find you were right, or that the book was right, but it’s a learning experience. If you like you can write the author and inform him/her of the errors. I find mailed letters are more respectful than e-mails — it shows you put in more effort.

Robert Buxbaum, February 20, 2014. Here’s the difference between metals and non-metals, and a periodic table cup that I made, and sell. And here’s a difference between science and religion – reproducibility.

Toxic chemistry you can do at home

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I got my start on science working with a 7 chemical, chemistry set that my sister got me when I was 7 years old (thanks Beverly). The chemicals would never be sold by a US company today — too much liability. What if your child poisons himself/herself or someone else, or is allergic, or someone chokes on the caps (anything the size of a nut has to be labeled as a hazard). Many of the experiments were called magic, and they were, in the sense that, if you did them 200 years earlier, you’d be burnt as a witch. There were dramatic color changes (phenolphthalein plus base, Prussian Blue) a time-delay experiment involving cobalt, and even an experiment that (as I recall) burst into fire on its own (glycerine plus granulated potassium permanganate).

Better evil through science. If you get good at this, the military may have use of your services.

“Better the evil you know.” If you get good at this, the military may have use of your services. Yes, the American military does science.

Science kits nowadays don’t do anything magically cool like that, and they don’t really teach chemistry, either, I think. Doing magical things requires chemicals that are reasonably reactive, and that means corrosive and/or toxic. Current kits use only food products like corn-starch or baking soda, and the best you can do with these is to make goo and/ or bubbles. No one would be burnt at the stake for this, even 300 years ago. I suppose one could design a program that used these materials to teach something about flow, or nucleation, but that would require math, and the kit producers fear that any math will turn off kids and stop their parents from spending money. There is also the issue of motivation. Much of historical chemistry was driven by greed and war; these are issues that still motivate kids, but that modern set-makers would like to ignore. Instead, current kits are supposed to be exciting in a cooperative way (whatever that means), because the kit-maker says so. They are not. I went through every experiment in my first kit in the first day, and got things right within the first week — showing off to whoever would watch. Modern kits don’t motivate this sort of use; I doubt most get half-used in a lifetime.

There are some foreign-made chemistry sets still that are pretty good. Here is a link to a decent mid-range one from England. But it’s sort of pricy, and already somewhat dumbed down. Instead, here are some cheaper, more dangerous, American options: 5 experiments you can do (kids and parents together, please) using toxic household chemicals found in our US hardware stores. These are NOT the safest experiments, just cheap ones that are interesting. I’ll also try to give some math and explanations — so you’ll understand what’s happening on a deeper level — and I’ll give some financial motivation — some commercial value.

1) Crystal Drano + aluminum. Crystal Drano is available in the hardware store. It’s mostly lye, sodium hydroxide, one of the strongest bases known to man. It’s a toxic (highly poisonous) chemical used to dissolve hair and fat in a drain. It will also dissolve some metals and it will dissolve you if you get it on yourself (if you do get it on yourself, wash it off fast with lots of water). Drano also contains ammonium nitrate (an explosive) and bits of aluminum. For the most part, the aluminum is there so that the Drano will get hot in the clogged drain (heat helps it dissolve the clog faster). I’ll explain the ammonium nitrate later. For this experiment, you’re going to want to work outside, on a dinner plate on the street. You’ll use additional aluminum (aluminum foil), and you’ll get more heat and fun gases. Fold up a 1 foot square of aluminum foil to 6″ x 4″ say, and put it on the plate (outside). Put an indent in the middle of the foil making a sort of small cup — one that can stand. Into this indent, put a tablespoon or two of water plus a teaspoon of Drano. Wait about 5 minutes, and you will see that the Drano starts smoking and the aluminum foils starts to dissolve. The plate will start to get hot and you will begin to notice a bad smell (ammonia). The aluminum foil will turn black and will continue to dissolve till there is a hole in the middle of the indent. Draino

The main reaction is 2 Al + 3 H2O –> Al2O3 + H2; that is, aluminum plus water gives you aluminum oxide (alumina), and hydrogen. The sodium hydroxide (lye) in the Drano is a catalyst in this reaction, something that is not consumed in this reaction but makes it happen faster than otherwise. The hydrogen you produce here is explosive and valuable (I explain below). But there is another reaction going on too, the one that makes the bad smell. When ammonium nitrate is heated in the presence of sodium hydroxide, it reacts to make ammonia and sodium nitrate. The reaction formula is: NH4-NO3 + NaOH –> NH3 + NaNO3 + H2O. The ammonia produced gives off a smell, something that is important for safety — the smell is a warning — and (I think) helps keep the aluminum gunk from clogging the drain by reacting with the aluminum oxide to form aluminum amine hydroxide Al2O3(NH3)2. It’s a fun experiment to watch, but you can do more if you like. The hydrogen and ammonia are flammable and is useful for other experiments (below). If you collect these gases, you can can make explosions or fill a balloon that will float. Currently the US military, and several manufacturers in Asia are considering using the hydrogen created this way to power motorcycles by way of a fuel cell. There is also the Hindenburg, a zeppelin that went around the world in the 1930s. It was kept aloft by hydrogen. The ammonia you make has value too, though toxic; if bubbled into water, it makes ammonium hydroxide NH3 + H2O –> NH4OH. This is a common cleaning liquid. Just to remind you: you’re supposed to do these experiments outside to dissipate the toxic gases and to avoid an explosion in your house. A parent will come in handy if you get this stuff on your hand or in your eye.

Next experiment: check that iron does not dissolve in Drano, but it does in acid (that’s experiment 5; done with Muriatic acid from the hardware store). Try also copper, and solder (mostly tin, these days). Metals that dissolve well in Drano are near the right of the periodic table, like aluminum. Aluminum is nearly a non-metal, and thus can be expected to have an oxide that reacts with hydroxide. Iron and steel have oxides that are bases themselves, and thus don’t react with lye. This is important as otherwise Drano would destroy your iron drain, not only the hair in it. It’s somewhat hard on copper though, so beware if you’ve a copper drain.

Thought problem: based on the formulas above figure out the right mix of aluminum, NaOH, water and Ammonium nitrate. Answer: note that, for every two atoms of aluminum you dissolve, you’ll need three molecules of water (for the three O atoms), plus at least two molecules of ammonium nitrate (to provide the two NH2 (amine) groups above. You’ll also want at least 2 molecules of NaOH to have enough Na to react with the nitrate groups of the ammonium nitrate. As a first guess, assume that all atoms are the same size. A better way to do this involves molecular weights (formula weights), read a chemistry book, or look on the internet.

Four more experiments can be seen here. This post was getting to be over-long.As with this experiment, wear gloves and eye protection; don’t drink the chemicals, and if you get any chemicals on you, wash them off quick.

Here are a few more experiments in electrochemistry and biology, perhaps I’ll add more. In the meantime, if you or your child are interested in science, I’d suggest you read science books by Mr Wizard, or Isaac Asimov, and that you learn math. Another thought, take out a high school chemistry text-book at the library — preferably an old one with experiments..

Robert Buxbaum, December 29, 2013. If you are interested in weather flow, by the way, here is a bit on why tornadoes and hurricanes lift stuff up, and on how/ why they form.